Restaurants, cafes and bakeries in Winterberg

Ukmarjeva ulica, 1000 Ljubljana

+38640706511

Tue–Sat 10:00–21:00; Mon 10:30–21:00

Restaurant in Ljubljana serving Asian. Offers outdoor seating, takeout.

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Széchenyi utca 11., 9737 Bük

+36704488099

Mon–Thu 11:30–20:00; Fri–Sat 11:30–21:00; Sun 11:30–20:00

Hordó Étterem stands at Széchenyi utca 11 in the centre of Bük, on a site that has served food and drink for more than a hundred years. The house traces its first written mention to October 1919, when a bishop's visit ended with a festive lunch at what was then the Galavits inn. It later passed to Antal Lökkös, who had started there as a young waiter, and became the meeting place of the local craftsmen's club, the village choir and the first table tennis players of Bük. From 1980 it was known as the Aranyhordó, and in 1995 it hosted the opening of the first Bük wine festival. After a full rebuild the restaurant reopened in the summer of 2021 under its present name, next to the Park Hotel. The interior aims to be smart without being stiff, and a lounge with a relaxed café and beer bar feel is open to restaurant guests too, including for watching a football match. The chef works with local and seasonal produce, and each month brings its own seasonal dishes, while every weekday at midday there is a set lunch menu on a weekly rotation. Fresh pizza has its own menu, from Margherita, Tonno and Quattro Formaggi to the house Hordó pizza and a spicy Ungherese with sausage, served at the table, on the terrace or to take away. From time to time the restaurant holds buffet lunches and dinners for locals and hotel guests alike. The Hordó has been a fixed address for wedding parties for decades and still takes weddings for up to 80 guests, along with company gatherings, and tables can be reserved by phone.

Kossuth utca 38., 9737 Bük

+36308559852

Fehérló, the White Horse, is a restaurant with a guesthouse on Kossuth utca in Bük, set in a green part of town a few minutes by car from the spa quarter of Bükfürdő. The kitchen builds on tradition and cooks seasonally from fresh, local ingredients, and the dining room is open every day from eleven in the morning until ten at night. The current menu, in use since Whitsun 2026, is written out in Hungarian, German, Czech and English. Among the house favourites are pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon with croquettes and a choice of cheddar, creamy mushroom or plum sauce, an original Hungarian beef stew with dumplings, spicy sirloin strips in a creamy sauce with mushrooms, bacon and baby carrots, and Mexican style chicken wings with spiced potato wedges. The poultry section adds chicken breast stuffed with cottage cheese and leek, wrapped in bacon and grilled, and a breaded chicken breast filled with bacon, red onion, pickles and cheddar. Many dishes can be ordered as a half portion. The Fehérló platter for two brings together grilled stuffed chicken, breaded pork, roast pork neck with spicy lecsó, fried catfish and Hungarian style roast pork with rice, croquettes, chips and salad. Children have their own page of dishes named after Winnie the Pooh and his friends. The guesthouse has eleven rooms, a trampoline and garden games for children and free parking that is locked at night. Bank and credit cards as well as the SZÉP card are accepted, and visitors who are not staying overnight can arrange to come for breakfast in advance.

Kossuth Lajos u. 70., 9737 Bük

+3694655884

Tue–Sun 11:00–22:00; Mon Closed

Kespub sits on Kossuth Lajos utca, the main street running through the centre of Bük, a short drive west of the spa quarter. It calls itself a restaurant and pizzeria with a distinctive, atmospheric interior, and it seats 110 guests indoors. From spring until autumn the garden is open as well, and the house suggests it for a cold drink in the sun. The menu, printed in Hungarian, English, German and Czech, mixes traditional dishes with local specialities and hearty home style Hungarian cooking. Soups include clear meat broth with fine noodles or homemade liver dumplings, garlic cream soup with cheese toast, beef goulash soup and a chilled raspberry cream soup with toasted pistachios. Main courses run from veal paprikash with egg dumplings and pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon with porcini cream sauce to barbecue pork ribs with coleslaw, a New Zealand tenderloin steak, salmon steak on saffron risotto and garlic shrimp spaghetti. Caesar salad comes with chicken, beef or shrimp, and there is fried Trappist cheese for those who skip meat. A sharing platter for two combines ribs, stuffed chicken breast, Sicilian chicken and tenderloin slices with rice, potatoes and grilled vegetables. Desserts include cheesecake with raspberry sauce, pistachio tiramisu and a chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream. The bar side matters too: Hungarian and foreign beers, a wide choice of Hungarian pálinka and cocktails. The pub shows football matches and hosts birthday and name day parties, hen and stag evenings and class reunions. Food can be packed to take away, and cards and the SZÉP card are accepted.

Thermál Krt. 1., 9740 Bükfürdő

+3694358250

Mon–Sun 11:00–22:00

Vadvirág Csárda stands on the main road through Bükfürdő, the spa quarter of Bük in western Hungary, about 250 metres from the entrance of the thermal baths. The house has been cooking for a quarter of a century and has grown over those years from a small dining room into one of the largest restaurants in the resort. Its best known feature is the garden: close to 200 guests can sit there under the wide crowns of old oak trees, on chairs and at tables made from swamp poplar wood in a style the owners describe as their own. Indoors the main dining room seats around 100, and a separate private room takes another 30, which suits family gatherings and club evenings. The kitchen cooks the classics of Hungarian cuisine but uses newer cooking and baking methods, and the house names healthy eating as one of its main aims. The menu is organised into starters, soups, fish, poultry, pork, beef and game, salads and desserts. Examples are kettle goulash, whole roasted trout with garlic pesto pasta, grilled pike perch with courgette risotto, duck breast with mango sauce, garlic roast pork in the traditional Hungarian style, beef stew with egg noodles and venison prepared the chef's way, followed by Somló sponge pudding or Gundel pancakes. In summer the garden adds grilled dishes, food from the wood oven, goulash cooked over an open fire and roast suckling pig, usually with music. The restaurant is open every day from late morning until ten in the evening, offers free Wi-Fi and accepts the Hungarian SZÉP card as well as several meal voucher schemes, among them Ticket Restaurant, Sodexo and Erzsébet vouchers.

Svetog Antona 38, 52466 Novigrad

+385998121267

Restaurant Marina is the shared project of chef Marina Gaši and sommelier Davor Buršić in Novigrad. Their approach begins with the Adriatic and with the ingredients available from it, allowing the meal to take shape around the catch, the season and the chef's ideas. Fishing, olive growing and winemaking are part of the Istrian background that informs their work. Rather than promising a fixed sequence of dishes in advance, Marina creates a changing tasting experience. Weather conditions and the relationship with fishermen help determine what reaches the kitchen, and the resulting menu leaves room for ingredients that guests may not have tried before. The emphasis is on discovering what a particular day's produce can become through the chef's preparation. There are shorter and longer tasting formats: the midday selection offers four or six courses, while the evening selection has six or eight. Desserts are chosen from the daily selection, giving the meal another element that can change from visit to visit. Davor's role brings wine into the experience, with choices from Istria and nearby wine regions accompanying the food. The restaurant asks guests to reserve, giving the kitchen time to prepare for the people coming to the table. It suits diners who enjoy handing the choice of individual dishes to the chef and following a meal as it unfolds. At this address on Svetog Antona, seafood and wine are the two connected parts of a personal interpretation of Istrian cooking.

Ulica Zidine 14, 52466 Novigrad

+38552356700

Porporela Restaurant & Sunset Bar belongs to Blu Mare Hotel on Ulica Zidine, beside the waterfront of Novigrad's old town. The restaurant combines sea views with Mediterranean cooking under Daniel Engelhardt, whose approach favours regional ingredients and a light, contemporary treatment. A separate sunset bar adds another setting for drinks and smaller dishes, while the restaurant offers a more composed meal. The autumn menu moves between the Adriatic and the Istrian countryside. Sea bass carpaccio is paired with lime, ginger and radish; grilled octopus comes with baby spinach and olive nut pesto. Traditional fuži pasta appears with Istrian truffle and a Malvasia reduction, while pumpkin risotto is accompanied by prawns and sage. These combinations give familiar local ingredients a distinctive arrangement without losing their regional connection. Main courses include the day's fish, served whole or as a fillet with lemon potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Tuna is matched with squid ink pasta, tomato, fermented garlic and preserved lemon. Meat choices include beef tenderloin with a truffle crust and a lamb dish using several cuts. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are explicitly identified, including slow cooked aubergine with bulgur, chickpeas and a red pepper glaze. Desserts continue the individual approach with fig cheesecake, tonka bean crème brûlée and homemade sorbets. For a private gathering, the Chef's Table offers an intimate dining room decorated with vines and wood. Together, the dining room, bar and coastal setting give visitors several ways to enjoy the same address.

Zidine 10, 52466 Novigrad

+38552255555

Mon 18:00–22:00; Tue–Sun 12:00–22:00

Konoba Gatto Nero is tucked into Zidine, a small street close to the sea in Novigrad. Its kitchen combines seafood, meat and homemade pasta, using carefully selected local ingredients, many from organic cultivation. The range makes it possible to approach the meal through several different parts of Istrian cooking, from shellfish to truffles. Seafood preparations draw on Kvarner scampi, squid and octopus, alongside scallops, other local shellfish and John Dory. These ingredients give the coastal side of the menu its character. The meat selection includes beef steak, cheeks and goulash, offering a different direction for guests who prefer a meal from the land. Homemade ravioli, tagliatelle and gnocchi sit between these two strands of the kitchen. Fritaja, the regional egg dish, is prepared with fresh black or white truffles, bringing another recognisable Istrian ingredient to the table. The restaurant also gives attention to vegetarian and vegan diners and to people who need to discuss gluten or other allergens. Guests with particular dietary requirements can raise them with the team when arranging their visit. Outdoor seating adds an alternative to the dining space, and the restaurant welcomes pets. Wi-Fi is available, and payment can be made in cash or with the listed bank cards. Reservations are offered directly by the restaurant. With its combination of seafood, pasta and meat dishes, Gatto Nero gives a mixed group several ways to build a meal around local ingredients without all choosing the same style of food.

Zidine 5, 52466 Novigrad

+38552758134

Damir & Ornella occupies a small address on Zidine in Novigrad, where the kitchen gives Adriatic seafood a particularly spare treatment. Raw fish, olive oil, salt and pepper form the centre of the cooking, with carefully chosen accompaniments adding different textures and flavours. This is a place to explore the fish itself and the effect of a few ingredients around it. The seafood selection includes raw Kvarner shrimp paired with melon, a combination that sets delicate shellfish against fresh fruit. Raw fish also appears with polenta finished with black truffle. Another preparation brings Adriatic squid together with Istrian olive oil from the Belić family, salt, mixed pepper and aged balsamic vinegar. Scallops and smaller white scallops continue the shellfish theme, while soft crabs are accompanied by olive oil, balsamic vinegar and Malvazija wine. Lobster prepared in the Catalan style is paired with fried asparagus. Alongside these seafood dishes, the kitchen makes its own pasta, including tagliatelle, gnocchi and spaghetti, using stone-ground Italian flour. Homemade desserts provide a final course, and the ice cream has an olive oil accompaniment that carries an ingredient from the savoury cooking through to the end of the meal. Wine is another part of the restaurant's approach to seafood. The dining room has space for roughly two dozen people, making this a compact setting for a meal built around the Adriatic. Dogs are welcome, and reservations can be requested directly.

Mandrač 12, 52466 Novigrad

+38552730398

Konoba Parangal stands beside Novigrad's mandrač, the small old harbour where boats remain part of the view. This family tavern has been here since 2016, with tables outside beneath old olive trees and shade sails. Its name comes from a traditional fishing line with smaller hooked lines attached along it, a fitting connection to the seafood on the menu. The kitchen prepares fish from the grill, baked in salt or in buzara sauce, with chard and potatoes alongside. Mussels, scallops, scampi and lobster also appear in buzara, the Adriatic preparation based on white wine, garlic and parsley. A house fish platter and mixed fried fish are intended for two people. Meat dishes broaden the choice beyond the catch. Beef steak, Istrian pork loin, skewers, pork ribs, ćevapi and pljeskavica are among the grilled options. Pasta includes fuži with truffles and prosciutto, as well as gnocchi, spaghetti and tagliatelle. Diners choosing dishes without meat or fish can look to four-cheese gnocchi, vegetable spaghetti, breaded mushrooms, grilled vegetables and salads. Istrian wines include bottles from Kozlović, Kabola and Deklić. The harbour setting and the broad menu make the experience that of a traditional konoba, with familiar regional dishes and room to choose between land and sea. Tables can be arranged by phone, which is especially useful during the busy season. Inside, old photographs of Novigrad and windows facing the harbour continue the connection between the dining room and the town outside.

Rivarela ul. 21, 52466 Novigrad

+385989612543

Mon–Sun 11:00–22:30

La Rivarella is a family restaurant on Novigrad's Rivarela waterfront, with a terrace directly beside the sea. Established in 2023, it brings together the work of a chef and his parents. His route home included kitchens at the Dolder Grand in Zürich, Grand Tirolia in Kitzbühel, and Vienna's Plachutta and Figlmüller. That background informs a restaurant centred on personal hospitality, Adriatic ingredients and carefully assembled plates. Fish and homemade pasta are prominent, with several dishes showing how the kitchen combines familiar ingredients with a more elaborate presentation. Pearl of the Adriatic pairs scampi with a crisp cuttlefish ink base, herb oil and foam. Lobster tagliatelle comes with tomato sauce, basil, claws and tail, and is presented as a dish to share. The house surf and turf brings steak and scampi together with mushroom, roasted cherry tomato, mashed potato and a dark jus. There are simpler ways to begin, too. The starters include Istrian prosciutto, a selection of cheeses, beef tartare, vitello tonnato and sea bass carpaccio. The wider menu follows the catch and the season, while the family's cooking also draws on Istrian truffles and olive oil from neighbouring producers. Children's portions are available across the menu, making the restaurant practical for a family table as well as a meal for two. Reservations are taken over WhatsApp. The waterfront terrace is the defining setting: a place to settle into a shared meal with the sea immediately alongside.

Rivarela ulica 17, 52466 Novigrad

+38552726469

Stars Restoran occupies a spot on Rivarela, the waterfront along the southern side of Novigrad's old town. The nearby cinema CMIK and the coastal promenade make it easy to combine a meal with a walk through this compact part of town. It is a family restaurant established in 2009, with a terrace facing the sea. Seafood is the natural starting point here, although the menu also leaves room for guests who prefer something from the land. A meal might begin with octopus salad or anchovies, followed by grilled fish, squid or shellfish cooked in buzara sauce. Pasta and risotto provide another way into the coastal cooking, while vegetarian spaghetti offers an alternative to the fish dishes. The selection changes with the catch and the season, so choosing what appeals on the day is part of the experience. The setting gives the restaurant much of its character. Rather than travelling out into the countryside for a meal, guests can stay beside the water and watch the waterfront around them. The terrace suits visitors who want the view to be part of the occasion, with conversation and a succession of dishes taking centre stage. Tables can be reserved by telephone. For a holiday based in Novigrad, Stars offers a straightforward combination of family hospitality, a substantial seafood choice and an old town location that works naturally with exploring on foot.

Stancija Rossello 36, 52466 Novigrad

+38552825743

Mon–Sat 12:00–21:00; Sun Closed

Konoba Anni is a family tavern at Stancija Rossello, on the approach to old Novigrad. Parts of the original stone walls remain inside, while the rest of the room has been given a more contemporary finish. Outside, kiwi vines form a canopy over the terrace, becoming thicker through summer and carrying fruit above the tables towards the end of August. The kitchen combines traditional Istrian cooking with burgers and a selection of seafood dishes. Its menu changes with the season while retaining house specialities. The pictured selection includes a double burger, a pulled pork burger, fried calamari, seafood paella and a shellfish pan. Octopus salad, bruschetta, chicken salad and the house spaghetti add further possibilities, alongside a tapas selection for a different style of meal. Bread, olives and homemade aioli arrive before the order, setting a simple, sociable beginning to the visit. Croatian white and red wines share the drinks selection with beer and classic cocktails. The setting also has a communal side: important football matches are shown with a projector on the terrace. Families, children and dogs are welcome. Vegetarian and gluten-free options can be discussed with the staff, as can other allergen questions. There is free parking directly opposite, Wi-Fi for guests and a choice of card or cash payment. Reservations are recommended during the busy season. Anni brings together a vine-covered terrace, a family kitchen and enough variety for diners to choose between regional cooking and a burger.

20 bis rue Foulques Nerra, 49350 Gennes-Val-de-Loire

+33241679564

Les Pieds Bleus is the restaurant within La Cave aux Moines at Préban, where adjoining underground galleries have been adapted into dining rooms. The setting makes the region's relationship with stone and food unusually tangible: these former tuffeau extraction galleries also house a working mushroom farm. The restaurant cooks with mushrooms produced in that same cave complex, bringing cultivation and kitchen into close contact. Paris mushrooms, oyster mushrooms and shiitakes are the three varieties grown on site. Fouées are the other central speciality. Made on the premises and cooked in traditional wood ovens, these small breads puff into hollow pockets that can be opened while warm and filled to taste. The house describes the customary accompaniments as butter, rillettes, white beans, cheese and mushrooms. Stuffed galipettes, another local mushroom preparation, also feature among the regional dishes. Loire wines accompany the menus, and a children's menu follows the same regional theme. The interconnected rooms make the restaurant suitable for family gatherings as well as larger occasions such as birthdays and business dinners. Guests can also explore the cave through a separate guided or independent visit, learning how tuffeau was extracted and how mushroom cultivation developed underground. A wine cellar offers tastings and bottles from the Loire, including Saumur and Anjou appellations. The combination of bread ovens, cave-grown mushrooms and old quarry spaces gives this restaurant a close connection to the practical traditions of Anjou.

2 quai de la Loire, 49350 Gennes-Val-de-Loire

+33241512886

De Loire & d'Ailleurs is the restaurant of chef Bryan Laubin and dining room manager Amandine Dumas at Les Rosiers-sur-Loire. Their approach brings southern French influences into an Anjou setting, drawing particularly on Provence and the Landes while keeping local ingredients in view. The kitchen presents seasonal menus, with additional suggestions written on the board alongside the main selection. The published summer menu illustrates how those influences meet: an Anjou salad combines rillauds, mushrooms and Tomme de Loire, while snails come from Cornillé-les-Caves. A tomato starter uses smoked mozzarella and focaccia with Espelette pepper, basil and tarragon. Fish and seafood preparations include mackerel with tomato gazpacho and garlic croutons, and small squid with parsley and garlic beside squid ink pasta. A breaded aubergine dish, explicitly offered as vegetarian, is accompanied by grilled courgettes, ratatouille, pepper sauce and smoked mozzarella. Meat options on that menu include veal tartare with hazelnut oil and polenta fries, plus a cut of beef selected according to supply. Desserts continue the mix of regional and more individual ideas, with an Anjou pavlova, melon parfait, vanilla cream choux and a sweet potato and white chocolate fondant. There are also cheeses and ice cream preparations. These dishes show the range of the kitchen rather than a fixed promise of what will be available on every visit. Reservations are taken directly by telephone, with the couple's team handling both kitchen and dining room.

55 quai des Mariniers, 49350 Gennes-Val-de-Loire

+33241457531

Mon–Sun 12:00–14:30, 19:00–21:00

La Route du Sel occupies a traditional tuffeau house beside the Loire in Le Thoureil, between Angers and Saumur. Built in 1851, the riverside building belongs to the landscape of the old village, and the restaurant's name recalls the transport of salt along the river from Nantes towards central France. The business is presented as a family restaurant with roots in the region across five generations. Its terrace and garden look over the Loire, while an indoor dining room provides a more sheltered setting. The kitchen's focus is fresh produce from local suppliers, with vegetables changing through the seasons and homemade pasta accompanying some dishes. River fish have a particular place here: eel, pike and pike perch appear among the specialities. The cooking also extends to nearby poultry and meat producers, with natural and regional wines alongside the food. Marie Monmousseau leads the kitchen, while pastry chef Laurent Mercier contributes desserts throughout the year. The pastry selection gives the meal its own final chapter, from a local crémet to fruit tarts and chocolate preparations. Together, the cooking and setting make this a place to explore the Loire through both the plate and the view. A table can be requested directly by telephone. The choice between dining inside and sitting beside the river gives the restaurant two distinct settings within the same house.

Lieu-dit La Bachellerie, 49320 Gennes-Val-de-Loire

+33241455357

Les Fouées de Grézillé offers a meal built around Anjou's small wood baked breads in a renovated underground restaurant at La Bachellerie. The troglodyte setting is part of the experience, pairing a comfortable cave dining space with a style of cooking centred on the wood oven. Fouées arrive as the main thread of the meal, with a range of fillings and accompaniments made using fresh seasonal ingredients and produce from local suppliers. The published menu includes pure pork rillettes, salted butter and rillauds, together with simmered white beans from Vendée and cooked fresh mushrooms. These provide several ways to fill the breads and give the meal a succession of different flavours. A green salad accompanies a cheese gratin prepared in the wood oven with Tomme d'Anjou and Guignolet, keeping the regional theme running through the meal. For dessert, the house lists homemade crémet d'Anjou with red fruit coulis, as well as ice cream or sorbet. The set formula also includes an aperitif, Anjou red or Loire rosé wine, and coffee or a fruit infusion. The restaurant works by reservation and can arrange meals for groups of at least twenty-five people. Online requests ask for the intended arrival time and the number of adults and children, with a return confirmation completing the booking. Its combination of underground surroundings, local wines and bread from the wood oven gives a focused introduction to a distinctive Anjou food tradition.

41 Sarré, 49350 Gennes-Val-de-Loire

+33241518132

Auberge du Moulin de Sarré brings the local fouée tradition into the setting of a working mill at Sarré, near Gennes. These small pockets of bread are made with stoneground flour from wheat milled at Sarré, connecting the restaurant's central speciality directly to the work of the mill. The house explains the bread's origins through the old practice of using leftover dough while a bread oven warmed up, then eating the small breads immediately with fillings. Here, the fouée menu supplies a succession of accompaniments rather than a single plated main course. Fresh butter, poultry rillettes from Ferme de la Touche, homemade spiced courgette terrine and white beans accompany the bread. Another filling, called the miller's stuffing, combines tomato, fresh mushrooms, ham and onion with fennel. Salad, cheese and a seasonal dessert complete the meal, with Anjou red wine served alongside it. A separate trout option adds fish cooked in the wood oven and Anjou white wine before the fouée selection; this preparation must be arranged ahead because of its cooking time. The auberge has three dining rooms and also welcomes private groups, offering exclusive use of the rooms, traditional menus and arrangements involving entertainment or dancing. Local performers and themed events form another part of the restaurant's life. Its emphasis stays on bread, regional accompaniments and shared tables, with the mill's flour giving the meal a particularly clear connection to its surroundings.

ul. Gryfa Pomorskiego 63, 83-333 Chmielno

+48575757160

Mon–Sun 12:00–20:00

Skolimówka is a guesthouse with a large restaurant on Gryfa Pomorskiego, the main road through Chmielno, about two hundred metres from the village centre and looking out over Lake Białe. The house describes its cooking simply as home cooking, built on Kashubian and traditional Polish recipes, and it runs a handful of rooms for people who want to stay a few nights by the lakes. In spring and summer the day starts with breakfast on a holiday terrace facing the water. The menu leans on lake and sea fish. There is baked trout, perch or pike perch in dill sauce, cod in a creamy mushroom sauce, halibut, and cod in a crisp panko coat with chunky fries and tartar sauce. Vendace, the small local lake fish, appears only from June to September. Among the meat dishes are a marinated pork cutlet fried in the pan, a chicken breast stuffed with cheese in the de volaille style, a lumberjack plate of potato pancakes with pork goulash, and, at weekends only, goose gizzards in a cream sauce with lovage and cranberry. Pierogi are shaped by hand: Russian style, with meat, with fruit, or as tiny dumplings with mushrooms, and a bowl of forty is offered for a table that wants to share. Soups include sour rye żurek with egg and white sausage, a tomato soup from the house's own summer passata and a creamy Kashubian fish soup. Salads come from a self service buffet, and children get pancakes and smaller plates. The house also runs a catering service and a small shop and hosts family parties, and the beach with a jetty lies about five hundred metres away.

ul. Kartuska 40, Garcz, 83-333 Chmielno

+48586842292

Mon–Sun 11:00–21:00

KrzewiRog is a karczma, a traditional country inn, on Kartuska street in Garcz, the village on the road between Chmielno and Kartuzy, close to Lake Łapalickie. The house says its recipes have been handed down from one generation to the next by the women of the Jóskowski family, and that most of its game and fish come from the Kashubian lakes and from farmers in the area. The menu is long and plainly regional. Starters include bread with lard and pickled cucumber, herring in cream, potato pancakes with sugar or sour cream, sour rye żurek served in a bread loaf with egg, and the house's own plińc, the Kashubian potato pancake. The soups run from clear beetroot barszcz and chicken rosół with noodles to tripe, a goulash bogracz, a cold summer chłodnik and swede soup cooked on goose. The chef recommends cabbage rolls, grandmother's beef roulade, pork tenderloin country style and duck leg with cranberries. There is a long list of pork and poultry, from breaded schnitzel and roast pork knuckle to tenderloin in honey and a Kashubian schnitzel. The fish come as baked local vendace, or as cod, trout, perch, pike perch and salmon. Pierogi are filled with cabbage and mushrooms, meat, cheese, potato or strawberries, and the meatless corner offers pancakes, kopytka potato dumplings and a vegetable skewer. Cake and ice cream close the meal. Next to the inn stands the newer Adamowo building, used for weddings, birthdays, anniversaries and conferences, with guest rooms above the restaurant and a beach about a hundred metres away.

ul. Droga Kaszubska 8A, Ostrzyce, 83-314 Somonino

+48586841877

U Stolëma is a lakeside recreation centre in Ostrzyce, on the Kashubian Road that winds through the hills of the Kashubian Switzerland, with a restaurant that serves passing guests as well as people staying in its rooms and apartments. It was founded by Witosław Labuda; the company was formed in Ostrzyce in March 1990 and from the start offered beds and meals on the shore. It later bought the holiday centre it had leased, added a spa and wellness wing in 2010, and is a member of the Kaszuby tourism association and of the local fisheries group. The restaurant is decorated in warm beige and red, with wooden panelling, patterns taken from Kashubian embroidery burned into wood or lit from behind, and hand painted works on one wall and on the ceiling above the dance floor. In summer it opens onto a terrace with a view over Lake Ostrzyckie, and a newer outdoor terrace has a pergola with a movable roof. The kitchen cooks Polish and Kashubian specialities: duck leg with homemade dumplings, the Stolem schnitzel, pierogi filled with goose and dried plums, grilled chicken breast in chanterelle sauce and potato plińce with game goulash. Black pudding croquettes are another regional dish, and there are poultry, fish and children's plates. Breakfast is served in the morning and à la carte dishes from late morning into the evening. Four halls allow three separate family celebrations at once, and a fireplace room of twenty five square metres with hunting decorations seats up to twenty. The lake belongs to the Radunia ring of ten connected lakes, and the Wieżyca lookout tower lies about six kilometres away.

New Station Street 16, Leeds, LS1 5DL

+447828823189

Mon 07:30–19:00; Tue 07:30–19:00; Wed 07:30–19:00; Thu 07:30–19:00; Fri 07:30–19:00; Sat 08:00–19:00; Sun 09:00–16:00

Laynes is a coffee house on New Station Street, immediately outside Leeds railway station, and it opened in 2011 into a city that had almost nothing of the kind. Fifteen years later it is the address people give when asked where the coffee is, and the restaurant is direct about what it set out to do: give Leeds a place that paid absolute attention to the quality of two ingredients, coffee and possibly milk, in a room where somebody would explain them. It has grown past that. There is a kitchen now, and the house claims some of the best breakfast and lunch in the city centre — a claim it can make because most of its competition is a chain. There is a Laynes bakery, and beans are sold through an online shop for anyone who wants to take the coffee home. Opening is early and long: half past seven in the morning to seven at night on weekdays, from eight on Saturday, and a shorter Sunday from nine to four. Tables can be booked, which for a coffee shop is unusual and says something about how busy it gets. New Station Street runs from the station entrance into the city, so this is the first door you pass arriving in Leeds by train and the last one leaving. You will find Laynes at 16 New Station Street, Leeds LS1 5DL.

Park Row 11-12, Leeds, LS1 5HD

+441132443220

Mon 12:00–23:00; Tue 12:00–23:00; Wed 12:00–23:00; Thu 12:00–23:00; Fri 12:00–00:00; Sat 12:00–00:00; Sun 12:00–23:00

Riva Blu stands on Park Row in the middle of Leeds and cooks southern Italian — which is a narrower thing than Italian, and the reason the room is worth singling out. The south is the half of Italy that gave the world tomato, chilli, oregano and durum wheat pasta, and a kitchen that commits to it eats differently from one working through the whole country. It functions as a restaurant and a bar together rather than a restaurant with a bar attached, and takes private events and celebrations in its own rooms. Gift cards are sold through the restaurant's site, and tables are booked the same way. The hours are generous by the standards of a British city centre. Midday to eleven at night from Sunday to Thursday, and midday to midnight on Friday and Saturday — one unbroken service, so a late lunch at four or an early dinner at six are both possible without waiting for a kitchen to reopen. Park Row runs through the financial quarter between the Town Hall and the river, a few minutes on foot from Leeds station and from the Victorian arcades. If you are staying anywhere central this is walking distance, and it is one of the streets that stays busy into the evening after the offices empty. You will find Riva Blu at 11-12 Park Row, Leeds LS1 5HD.

Mill Hill 7-8, Leeds, LS1 5DQ

+441135190584

Mon 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00; Tue 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00; Wed 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00; Thu 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00; Fri 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00; Sat 12:00–22:00; Sun Closed

Tharavadu is a Kerala restaurant on Mill Hill in the centre of Leeds, and the distinction matters: Kerala is the far south-west coast of India, and its cooking — coconut, curry leaf, tamarind, a great deal of fish — is not the north Indian repertoire that most British curry houses serve. The house motto is pure devotion to quality and authenticity, and the kitchen holds to the one region. It opened in June 2014 and the recognition followed quickly. In 2015 it was named best Indian restaurant in Leeds at the Oliver Awards and placed in TripAdvisor's top ten Indian restaurants in the United Kingdom. In 2016 it appeared in the Michelin Restaurant Guide and in Harden's, and took the Oliver Award again. The restaurant describes itself as part of a wave of serious kitchens that changed how Leeds thinks about Asian food, which is a fair claim for a room that arrived before most of them. Service runs Monday to Friday in two sittings, lunch from midday to two and dinner from five to ten. On Saturday it stays open straight through from midday to ten. On Sunday it is closed altogether, which catches people out. Mill Hill sits between the station and the city square, a few minutes' walk from Leeds railway station, so this is one of the easiest addresses in the city to reach without a car. You will find Tharavadu at 7-8 Mill Hill, Leeds LS1 5DQ.

Wharf Approach, Leeds, LS1 4BR

+441132430090

Mon 12:00–23:30; Tue 12:00–23:30; Wed 12:00–23:30; Thu 12:00–23:30; Fri 12:00–00:30; Sat 10:00–00:30; Sun 10:00–22:30

LIVIN'ITALY sits under the railway arches at Granary Wharf, on the canal side of Leeds station, and is three things in one space: a bar, an Italian restaurant and a deli. The arches give the room its shape, and the house makes a point of the fact that it is Italy lived rather than staged. The family business began in Milan in the 1980s, with the founders' parents and what they describe as a love of good food and honest hospitality; the Leeds house opened in 2012. It has been consistently named among the best Italian restaurants in Britain since. The four words the family uses for what it does — passion, tradition, integrity, simplicity — are worth repeating because the menu follows them: ingredients chosen for where they come from, dishes meant to be shared. Because the deli and the bar sit alongside the kitchen, the same address covers a morning coffee and a Negroni after midnight. Food can also be collected to take away, and gift vouchers are sold on the site. It opens at midday during the week and at ten at the weekend, running to half past eleven, and to half past midnight on Friday and Saturday. Granary Wharf is directly under Leeds station — a covered walk from the platforms. You will find LIVIN'ITALY at Wharf Approach, Granary Wharf, Leeds LS1 4BR.

South Parade 15, Leeds, LS1 5QS

+441132422795

Mon 17:00–22:00; Tue 17:00–22:00; Wed 17:00–22:00; Thu 17:00–22:00; Fri 17:00–23:00; Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–20:00

Sukhothai is a Thai restaurant on South Parade in central Leeds, and it has been open since 2002 — long enough in a city centre to have outlasted most of what opened around it. The house describes what it does as Thai fine dining, which here means the cooking treated as a kitchen discipline rather than as a takeaway menu. The name is the old capital of Siam, the kingdom that preceded modern Thailand, and it sets the register the restaurant is aiming for. Beyond the ordinary card there is private dining and, unusually for the cuisine, a Thai bottomless brunch — a British format applied to a Thai kitchen, which tells you the room is not run as a museum piece. The hours want attention because they change across the week. Monday to Friday it is an evening restaurant only, from five to ten, and to eleven on Friday. Saturday it opens at midday and runs to eleven. Sunday it opens at midday and closes at eight. Anyone arriving for a Wednesday lunch will find it shut. South Parade is in the middle of the city, a short walk from the Town Hall and from Park Row, and about ten minutes on foot from Leeds station. You will find Sukhothai at 15 South Parade, Leeds LS1 5QS.

East Parade 9, Leeds, LS1 2AJ

+441133406666

Mon 12:00–23:00; Tue 12:00–23:00; Wed 12:00–23:00; Thu 12:00–23:00; Fri 12:00–23:00; Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–23:00

Six by Nico on East Parade does one thing, and it does it differently every six weeks. The whole offer is a six-course tasting menu built around a single theme — a place, a concept, an idea — and when the six weeks are up the menu is thrown away and a new one replaces it. Recent themes have included Circus and New York. That format is the reason to know about it in advance rather than to walk past it. There is no permanent card to fall back on: what you eat depends entirely on when you come, and a dish you liked will not be there next time. It also means the room rewards a second visit in a way an ordinary restaurant does not, and the house publishes what is cooking now and what is coming next on its own site. Booking is effectively required, and vouchers are sold and redeemed against the experience — the house asks that a voucher balance be checked before arrival rather than at the table. Groups and private events are taken. It is open every day from midday to eleven at night. East Parade runs parallel to Park Row in the middle of Leeds, minutes from the Town Hall and a short walk from the station. You will find Six by Nico at 9 East Parade, Leeds LS1 2AJ.

ul. Zamkowa 45, 83-300 Kartuzy

+48666579381

Pizzeria Leone sits on Zamkowa street in Kartuzy, the county town of this part of Kashubia, and calls itself a piece of Italy in the heart of the region. The centre of the house is an oven fired with beech and oak wood, which reaches around five hundred degrees, so a pizza is ready in under three minutes. The dough is thin and made with Italian Tipo 00 flour, and the sauces are based on Italian DOP tomatoes. Because the base is thin, the kitchen keeps the number of toppings on each pizza limited so that it stays crisp. The list is long and mixes the classics with house inventions. Next to Margherita, Capricciosa and Salami there is a meatless pizza with mushrooms and peppers, a seafood one with tuna and capers, a Greek style Zorba with feta and olives, a spinach pizza with gorgonzola and sun dried tomatoes, and several that use oscypek, the smoked sheep cheese from the Polish mountains. Newer white pizzas start from crème fraîche, such as a carbonara version and one with pear, Parma ham, gorgonzola and almonds, and there is a calzone. Beyond pizza the menu has pasta with pesto or a beef ragù the house calls Leonese, pierogi, salads, chicken dishes served with fries or potato wedges and a salad of fresh vegetables, a sausage baked in the oven, and khachapuri, the baked flatbread with cheese and egg. Coffee and lemonades are on the drinks list. The pizzeria is open every day from midday, and food can be eaten on site, collected, or delivered within Kartuzy and to the surrounding villages.

La Porte, 35430 Saint-Jouan-des-Guérets

+33259291174

The Auberge du Clos des Vignes is a country inn on the road between Saint-Malo and the Rance, ten minutes by car from the walled town and away from the summer crowds. Tony and Alexis run it as a pair, one in the kitchen and one in the room, and the cooking is French bistro food done with care: a market menu that changes with the week, meat from the region, fish from the coast, proper desserts. It opens for lunch and dinner every day of the week, which is rarer than it sounds around Saint-Malo, where many kitchens close on Mondays. The garden makes it a good choice for an evening when the town is full; parking is easy.

Orihi 58, 52207 Barban

+385992294300

Konoba Vorichi stands at the edge of Orihi, a village in the municipality of Barban, with greenery and vineyards around the restaurant. Its name preserves an older name for the village, and the tavern first welcomed guests in 2013. The kitchen combines Istrian traditions with contemporary preparation, drawing on produce from nearby farms and a family tradition of making bread and pasta by hand. Sourdough, focaccia and grissini introduce a menu in which familiar regional ingredients appear in varied combinations. The off-season selection includes local cured meats, a cheese platter with ricotta and cow’s and goat’s cheeses, beef tartare and a cold fish platter. Pasta choices range from fuži with truffles to ravioli with cheese, hazelnut and pancetta. Cheese-filled gnocchi come with saffron, sage and almond, while the risotto combines cod with spicy sausage. Maneštra brings together prosciutto, corn, beans and barley in an Istrian stew. Larger dishes include pork loin with leek and parsnip cream, smoked brisket with root vegetables, steaks and fish fillet. Desserts continue the kitchen’s interest in unexpected pairings: puff pastry with hazelnut and mascarpone creams, a chocolate tart, and rice with truffle ice cream and crumble. The wine selection accompanies views towards Malvasia vines. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available, and dogs are welcome indoors and outside under their owners’ supervision. Children have a garden and vineyard area to explore. Parking is beside the tavern, and the team also arranges family celebrations and business gatherings. Advance reservations are recommended, particularly for weekends and the tourist season.

Bratulići 17, 52207 Barban

+385952219381

Agroturizam Istra Partner combines a restaurant, guest accommodation and countryside activities at Bratulići, in the rural landscape between Barban, Marčana and Pula. The restaurant is one part of a wider agritourism property, so a visit centers on the relationship between the surrounding land, local ingredients and traditional Istrian cooking. The house describes its food as regional specialties prepared from fresh ingredients sourced locally, using recipes associated with the area's domestic kitchen. Its approach brings traditional food into a present day restaurant setting while keeping the focus on the produce. This is a place to contact before setting out: visits are arranged with the property, and guests can discuss their meal directly by telephone or email. That conversation is also useful for anyone planning to combine food with the other experiences offered here. The property's activities include walking, cycling, horseback riding and quad excursions, as well as gathering mushrooms, asparagus or grapes. These provide several ways to spend time in the countryside around a meal, depending on the season and the arrangements made with the hosts. For visitors staying longer, accommodation is available within the same property, with stone walls and air conditioned rooms. The official regional tourism listing identifies Istra Partner at Bratulići 17, and the municipal tourist board includes it among the area's eating places. For a holiday based near Rakalj, it offers an inland excursion built around Istrian food and the rural setting in which it is prepared.

Puntera 8d, 52207 Barban

+385954144441

Štefanija's Kitchen is the restaurant at Villa Štefanija in Puntera, above Raša Bay. Outside guests are welcome for dinner by advance reservation, making it an option for visitors staying elsewhere in the surrounding villages. The setting looks across the wooded coastline toward the Kvarner islands, with meals served on a terrace overlooking the sea. The restaurant takes its name and culinary direction from the family's grandmother, Štefanija. The house recalls her baking bread while grandfather Toni gathered mushrooms, wild asparagus and herbs or went hunting, bringing the changing seasons into the household kitchen. Chef Igor continues that approach with a short menu that develops around available ingredients. The cooking is Mediterranean and Istrian, emphasizing local produce, inherited recipes and preparations that take their time. Ingredients named by the kitchen include seasonal asparagus, mushrooms and truffles, fish from Kvarner, Istrian prosciutto and cheese, and olive oil from nearby groves. Guests can choose from à la carte dishes and a daily menu, with Istrian wines selected to accompany the food. Malvasia and Teran are among the wines highlighted by the house. The restaurant also arranges small weddings and other special occasions in its intimate setting. Villa Štefanija itself is a small property with seven accommodation units, set in countryside of meadows, fields and woodland around Puntera. For a restaurant visit, contact the team beforehand to arrange the table and discuss the meal; advance notice is part of how the kitchen welcomes diners who are not staying at the villa.

128 Chaussée du Sillon, 35400 Saint-Malo

+33623637191

Favorite Coffee is a coffee shop on the Sillon, the long seafront promenade, run by three sisters who wanted a place that serves breakfast all day. That is what it does: eggs, pancakes, granola bowls, avocado toast and fresh juices from morning until the afternoon, with specialty coffee, matcha and homemade cakes alongside. The room is bright and the tables outside face the beach across the road. It is the kind of place for a slow morning after a swim, or a late breakfast on a day when the tide has taken the beach away. Weekends are busy; midweek mornings are the calm ones.

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3 Chaussée du Sillon, 35400 Saint-Malo

+33299561074

The Brasserie du Sillon stands right on the seafront promenade, ten minutes on foot from the ramparts, with the beach and the tide in front of the windows. It is a seafood house first: oysters and whelks from the bay, a Royal Sillon platter stacked with crab, langoustines and prawns, grilled fish of the day and moules-frites. The menu changes every six to eight weeks with the season, and there is meat for those who did not come for the sea. Between lunch and dinner the room becomes a tea room, which makes it a good stop after a long walk along the Sillon. The dining room is level and accessible, and the terrace faces the water.

Prodol 35A, 52208 Prodol

+38552580174

Luna is a restaurant and pizzeria in Prodol, a village in the municipality of Marčana. The house dates its beginnings to 1995 and provides a substantial amount of seating: three indoor rooms accommodate two hundred guests, with another hundred places on the terrace. That layout gives it scope for both ordinary meals and private gatherings. Air conditioning, a heated terrace, a children's corner and parking are among its stated facilities. The menu ranges well beyond pizza. Seafood choices include grilled squid with Swiss chard and potatoes, a fish platter for two, and scampi prepared either on the grill or in buzara sauce. Pasta can be ordered with truffles, seafood, mussels or a Bolognese sauce. Meat dishes include ribeye with potatoes and sautéed mushrooms, roast veal, stuffed pork fillet and chicken prepared in the Viennese style. An eggplant dish combines tomato, mozzarella and Parmesan. The pizza selection moves from familiar combinations to toppings with an Istrian accent. Alongside margherita and mushroom pizzas are versions with prosciutto and olives, truffle spread and Grana Padano, or mozzarella, rocket and cherry tomatoes. A vegetable pizza includes mushrooms, seasonal vegetables and olives. Desserts include strawberry cheesecake, lava cake with ice cream, panna cotta and pancakes with several fillings. Luna welcomes pets and offers takeaway, wireless internet and card payment. Reservations can be requested by telephone or through the restaurant's booking form, with space to discuss the size and needs of a visiting group.

9 Rue du Dick, 35400 Saint-Malo

+33299810565

Mon–Fri 12:00–14:00, 19:00–21:30; Sat, Sun 12:00–14:30, 19:00–22:00

Le Globe-Trotter is a small restaurant in the heart of the Cité d'Alet, between the Solidor tower and the Bas-Sablons beach, and its name is the menu: dishes gathered from journeys, cooked with what the Breton markets offer. A Thai curry can follow a Breton fish tartare, a tagine a plate of grilled prawns, and the card changes often enough that regulars find something new each visit. At midday there are set lunch formulas between about €15 and €22, which makes it one of the better-value sit-down lunches on this side of the harbour. The terrace is sheltered and there is room for families; evenings are calmer than in the walled town.